Wine’s nobleness

“This is what wine’s nobleness consists of: it is never a detached and abstract object, which could be judged by drinking a glass, or two or three, of a bottle coming from a place where we have never been to. What do smell and taste tell us when we drink a wine produced in a place, in a setting we have never seen, from a land we have never walked on, and by people we have never looked in eyes and shook our hands with ? Little, very little”. (From “Vino al vino” by Mario Soldati)